【最新版】眉は骨格に合わせるのがトレンド!出てる眉骨を目立たなくするメイク術とは?

コラム

いきなりですが「骨格診断」という言葉を聞いたことがありますか?

骨格診断とはひとりひとりが生まれ持った骨格によるスタイルの違いによって、似合うファッションの素材や形を知り、ファッションを楽しむための理論のことです。
骨格や筋肉のつき方、肌の質感など体型の特徴から「似合う」「似合わない」を導き出すことができます。

このように自分の骨格を意識したファッションが今ブームになっていますが、実は眉毛にも骨格に似合う形があるのです。
今回は骨格に合わせた眉の作り方からメイク術まで詳しくご紹介します。

自分の骨格に合わせた眉の形にしよう!骨格無視した眉との印象の違いとは

ボディが人それぞれ違うように顔の骨格や眉の生え方も人によって異なります。
自分の骨格に合った眉を描くと自然に見えますが、骨格を無視した眉を描くとまるで貼り付けたかのような不自然な眉に見えてしまうので注意が必要です。

骨格に合わせた自然な眉にするには、まず顔の形に注目しましょう。
丸顔~面長顔など、顔の形によって似合う眉毛は変わってきます。

  • 面長顔…細眉よりも少し太めの平行眉がオススメ。
    太めの平行眉にすることで横の印象を強調し、縦の印象をカバーしてくれます。
  • 丸顔…細めで眉尻長めのアーチ状がオススメ。
    眉尻を少し細く長く描くことで顔が引き締まり丸顔をカバーしてくれます。
  • 逆三角…眉頭から眉山手前まで平行に、眉山から眉尻は少し長めのアーチ状にした平行アーチ眉がオススメ。
    長めの平行アーチ眉にすることで顔の縦と横のバランスが綺麗に、そして全体的に柔らかい印象に見えます。
  • ベース型…眉は眉頭から眉山までは少し角度をつけた直線的に、眉山から眉尻は長めのアーチ状がオススメ。
    少し角度をつけた直線的にすることで、眉の印象と顔全体のバランスが綺麗に見えます。
    また、立体的に見えるので小顔効果も期待できます。

次に、おでこの形にも注目です。
丸みのあるおでこの方はアーチ、平らだったり角ばっている方はストレートが顔の立体に沿った自然な眉の形になります。

おでこの幅が広い人はおでこのカーブが緩やかなので、あまり角度は付けないほうが◎。
幅が狭い人はおでこのカーブが急なのでしっかり角度を付けた方が似合います。

出てる眉骨をなくしたい!整形級に変わる眉骨を目立たなくするメイク術を紹介

自分の骨格に合う眉の形がわかったけど、メイクが上手くできない…
眉骨が出ているのが気になる…
という方のために、次は骨格を意識したメイクや眉骨を目立たなくするメイク術をご紹介します。

眉の基本の位置を知ろう!ポイントは眉頭・眉山・眉尻!

自分で骨格を意識したメイクをすることは可能です。
まず大切なのは、眉の眉頭・眉山・眉尻の基本の位置を知ることです。
下記が一般的に自分の顔を綺麗に見せることができる基本の位置になります。

眉山→黒目横の延長線上
眉頭→小鼻横の延長線上
眉尻→鼻と目じりの延長線上

ここから、顔をもっと凛々しく濃く見せたいときは基本位置よりも1~2ミリ程度内側に書きましょう。
優しく穏やかに見せたいときは基本位置よりも1~2ミリ程度外側にすると印象を変えることができます。
眉尻の高さは下眉頭と同じ高さか、それよりも少し上になると困り眉にならずに済みますよ。

眉骨が目立つ…メイクで眉骨を目立たなくする方法はある?

眉毛の下にある骨が出ていて、気になる方はメイクで自然に目立たなくする方法が2つあります。

1つ目は、眉骨の存在を最小限に見せる方法です。
アイブロウペンシルで眉山から眉尻までを下に湾曲させる、もしくは本来より眉頭の位置を下げるようにラインを引くことでカーブができ眉骨が立たなくなります。

2つ目は、「眉骨が出ている=彫りが深い」と逆手にとらえ、あえて主張していく方法です。
濃い目のアイシャドーを使って、スモーキーな外国人風の目元にすると眉骨が馴染みます。
また、ノーズシャドウで目頭下のくぼみからアイホールにかけて薄くのせ、彫りの深さを主張してみてください。

自分の顔にあった眉の形を見つけられる!眉サロンの骨格診断とは?

自分の骨格にあった眉の形が分からない方はプロに見てもらうのがオススメ

眉サロンでは個人それぞれの骨格や輪郭、ライフスタイルに合わせ日本人女性の眉の黄金比率からその人にあった美しい眉毛を表現する「骨格診断」を行っているところがほとんどです。
スタッフさんに眉を見てもらい、自分の骨格にあった眉を見つけましょう。
きっと、今まで見たことない新しい自分に出会えますよ。

眉サロンで骨格診断やスタイリングを行うにはありのままの自眉毛が必要なので、2~3週間以上セルフお手入れはお休みしてくださいね。

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